Prologue 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Chapter XVII - Peru and the Empire of the Incas: A trip to Peru with an Outstanding Group (October 15th - 28th, 2007)

Daily Summary

Day 1 - Monday, October 15th - In transit from U. S. A. to Lima

After boarding our flight from Salt Lake to Los Angeles we had to deplane for a long delay. However, owing to our ever proactive tour director, Stewart, we succeeded in getting onto another flight and making our connections to Lima. Sister Hooker, Estefani's mother, met us at the airport. We were intrigued with her belief that Lehi in the Book of Mormon had landed somewhere on the coast of Peru. Stewart later reminded us of President Lee's comment made some years ago that there is no "definitive" account or understanding of where exactly in the Americas events in the Book of Mormon took place. Nevertheless, in the coming days as we saw more of the monumental achievements of pre-Columbian civilization in Peru, and discerned more clearly the believing hearts of those descended from these ancient peoples, we couldn't help but wonder about what we read in the Book of Mormon or what came afterwards might have happened in Peru.

Day 2 - Tuesday, October 16th - Lima

We first visited the Church of San Francisco of Assisi on Lima's main square, including the catacombs and library. A few of us were dismayed that Francisco Pizzaro is entombed there with such honors in view of his legacy of cruelty and ruthless exploitation. We were grateful that some of pre-Columbian culture lives on and that the light of the gospel is shining brightly in Peru. But we carry with us a silent lament for those who suffered and for the brutal destruction that was wrought upon their beautiful land. We next explored the handsome Plaza de Armas, the cultural and historic center of Lima.We then visited the new Presiding Bishopric Offices (PBO) recently completed in Lima. President Walter Gonzalez counseled us to give members in Ica, devastated by a recent earthquake, spiritual and emotional comfort, even more than material assistance. We enjoyed lunch on the seashore in a restaurant specializing in seafood of many kinds. Our next destination was the Lima temple where we attended an enjoyable endowment session together.

Day 3, Wednesday, October 17th - Lima to Ica

We first visited the Lima Museum of the Inquisition. We were impressed with the faith of those who suffered and gave their lives for their faith, preparing the way for the Restoration.From Lima be travelled by bus to Ica. On the way, we visited the stark sandy ruins of Pachacamac, built by precursors to the Incas.We next met with the Saints in Ica. Several members had lost their lives and others their homes. Many adults and children attended the meeting. We played games, gave gifts, sang songs, and danced with them. Brother Glazier was especially entertaining to the children. The sisters in our tour group danced the "Hokey Pokey" with the members. Urania shared seeds with them and later told how she had been inspired through prayer with the idea of bringing something especially needful to these people. The Bishop assured her this was one of the most valuable gifts we had brought them. We left feeling we had lifted spirits and done some good. Someone said that this was the first time since the earthquake that children were seen smiling and laughing.Despite the earthquake, suffering, and loss of lives among the members and the populace at large, spirits seemed lively and vibrant around the city as people were getting on with their lives. In Ica and elsewhere we were impressed with the resilience of the Peruvian people. A few of us observed two women standing in the middle of what had once been their home, the adobe walls collapsed around them, cooking a chicken stew in a large pot over an open fire, preparing a meal that they would soon share with their neighbors who had suffered similar losses.

Day 4, Thursday, October 18th - Ballestas Islands

This day we enjoyed an invigorating speed boat ride several miles out into the Pacific Ocean to visit the Ballestas Islands that are uninhabited by human beings. On the way we were filled with a sense of mystery and wonderment at the huge "candelabra" figure incised into an island hillside centuries ago by a little known people. No less inspiring were the millions of birds living year-round on these beautiful islands. Especially intriguing were the penguins, bright-billed pelicans, and sea lions. We were reminded how precious these creatures are with whom we share this planet, and were gratified that at least a few such refuges still remain largely untouched by human depredation. The wildlife aside, the Ballestas Islands are a source of geological wonder for their steep craggy walls, their sea-carved caves, tunnels, arches and ledges.Back in Ica, many stocked up on Peruvian chocolate during the midday hour(s).We then departed by bus for Nazca. We enjoyed the interesting contours and stark beauty of the virtually rainless Atacama plateau and desert. On the way to Nazca we stopped for a short time at an oasis and enjoyed the refreshing sight of greenery and water. The oasis is surrounded on all sides by very high, steep sand mountains. It was a landscape quite unlike any we had ever seen. A few hardy souls were up for a dune buggy ride, had there been more time.

Day 5, Friday, October 19th - Nazca, the Nazca Lines

We first visited the Cantalloc aqueduct and canals first built by the Nazca civilization some 1400 years ago and still maintained and in use today. A few of us were hesitant, but ultimately we all went up in small three and five passenger aircraft to view the Nazca lines on the "pampa" around the town Nazca. Little is known about their purpose, but it seems likely they are manifestations of religious and spiritual devotion, as are so many other vestiges of ancient Peruvian civilizations. Despite our distance in time and space from these peoples, we felt our humanity with them and our common aspirations for meaning and purpose in life.We made a final visit this day to the Chauchilla necropolis where we saw remains of the Wari and Nazca peoples that had survived the grave robbers. Mummies were buried in fetal position, always facing east, reminding us that these people, like ourselves, had strong beliefs in life after death. We next visited a ceramics shop where small replicas of Nazca pottery are made. We were intrigued by two small pet hawks the proprietor had befriended. In the evening, as usual, we had dinner together. Stanford Bracken provided the entertainment. After he had eaten part of the spaghetti dish he had ordered, a waiter informed him that he must trade it in for something else. Over Stanford's vehement protestations that he had exactly what he ordered, the waiter then removed the spaghetti, gave Stanford a different dish to eat, and, presumably gave Stanford's half-eaten dish to another customer. Such customs were quite new to most of us. After this experience it was a little clearer why we usually ate buffet style.

Day 6, Saturday, October 20th - Nazca to Arequipa

This day was spent mostly in driving from Nazca to Arequipa. The first long segment of the drive was spent overlooking the spectacular Pacific coastline with high steep cliffs above and below. The arid landscape was broken by rivers running to the ocean and slashes of green which included large groves of olive trees. We then turned inland toward the Andes and climbed from sea level to 8,000 feet where Arequipa sits in a valley bordered by towering mountains and a dormant volcano called "Misty," which reaches a height of 18,000 feet. Whether in the desert or in the high Andes, we never ceased to marvel at the natural wonders of Peru. During long drives on the bus this week, we were inspired hearing the testimonies, courtships, and life stories of several members of our group. This evening we enjoyed dinner in beautiful Arequipa at the Libertador hotel. Joining us were the Arequipa South Mission President and his wife, President and Sister Davis, as well as other local church leaders, and employees of the Church Educational System in Peru. We were delighted to hear there are 880 seminary students in the area, with 95% early morning attendance.

Day 7, Sunday, October 21st - Arequipa

Several of the group went for an early morning stroll to the beautiful Plaza de Armas in central Arequipa, a real colonial jewel. The air was especially clear and the spring sunshine brilliant. Adding to the beautiful weather, it was Sunday and Arequipa was much quieter than usual, owing to the national census that day which was keeping most people indoors. The geraniums, the flowering jacaranda and flaming gulmohar trees, and other flowers were in glorious springtime bloom. Lifting our spirits even further, we attended sacrament meeting in the the beautiful home of President and Sister Davis near our hotel. Brother and Sister Barrett provided inspirational talks. Six young elders sang for us; also a quartet of Brothers Glazier, Anderson, Huff, and Loveless. President Davis then spoke to us about missionary activity in the Arequipa South Mission. There are 82 stakes in the mission and 4 districts, 206 missionaries, 40 sisters, 40 North Americans, 120 Peruvians. Retention is a remarkable 70%. We then flew from Arequipa to Juliaca passing over the magnificent Andes east of Arequipa. From Juliaca we drove by bus to Puno and arrived there in the evening as the sun was setting.

Day 8, Monday, October 22nd - Puno, Lake Titicaca

Proceeding by boat from Puno a short way out onto Lake Titicaca, we passed through the famous reeds of the lake and visited the "floating islands" of the Uros Indians. There are some 40 such islands built on loamy blocks of tangled reed roots cut from the shallow lake bed, then tied together and covered with layers of dry reeds. The islands are anchored to the bottom of the lake in shallow waters. On each island-platform reed structures are built for housing, schools, and other purposes. The floating islands are entirely consistent with the engineering talents of these people's similarly gifted ancestors - the Wari, Nazca, Incas, etc. Impressive too was the relative harmony in which they live with their natural environment. The two islands we visited are home to several LDS families. We were deeply moved by their faith and the wholesome simplicity of the lives. As our visit came to an end, our dear island friends bid us farewell singing familiar LDS hymns. We sang hymns to them in return as we sailed away. Returning with us to Puno on our boat was a young man about 12 years old. We were very touched to learn that he rows himself the long distance from his home in the floating islands to Puno and back every school day. In the afternoon as the sun was sinking in the west, we visited the ruins of Sillustani, a beautiful complex of ancient burial towers and ruins overlooking an equally beautiful lake. Upon leaving, we encountered a woman and her vicuña, the smallest and rarest of South America's cameloids.On the way back to Puno from Sillustani we stopped to visit one of many solidly built rock homes, shaped somewhat like small fortresses built on the altiplano or high plain. The residents were very hospitable and provided us with delicious snacks made of local grains and produce. Ubiquitous llamas and alpacas grazed in front of the house.Most of us suffered from sleeplessness our first night on the altiplano. Three of us also suffered from more serious altitude sickness and were unable to attend all the day's events. The stop in Arequipa was helpful in making the altitude adjustment, but still from sea level to 12,000 feet in two days was a big jump for most of us.

Day 9, Tuesday, October 23rd - Puno to Cuzco

This day we traveled by bus from Puno to Cuzco with another tour group, many of whom were from Spain. The high mountains and passes were stunning. The highest peak was snow-capped Chimbayo, at about 18,000 feet. Along the way we took in the ruins of Pukara, Raqchi with its Temple of Viracocha or Kon-Tiki Viracocha, the white bearded god of the ancient Peruvians - a reminder of Christ's appearance in the Americas as recorded in the Book of Mormon. We were intrigued by a beautifully restored colonial Jesuit church in the picturesque town of Andahuaylillas near Cuzco.

Day 10, Wednesday, October 24th - Cuzco, Sacsayhuaman

In the morning we visited the "navel" of Incan civilization in Cuzco called Koricancha next to Santo Domingo Church. The elegant hewn, perfectly-fitted stone blocks of the structure attest to its importance to the Incas. Seeing this and many other similarly built ruins in and around Cuzco left us wondering how such feats of construction were accomplished - even more, what specifically motivated them. We next walked to the main square of Cuzco and entered the cathedral there - a splendid example of Spanish colonial baroque architecture. Nearby on the square is a fine Jesuit church.The narrow side streets and alleyways of Cuzco were very picturesque and fun to explore. Sacsayhuaman high up overlooking Cuzco is an imposing fortress where the Incas held out against the Spaniards for 10 months in 1536 before they were finally defeated. The individual stones of the fortress are again perfectly hewn and fitted. Even more astounding is their size and weight, many in the 50 to 100 ton range. The views of Cuzco are breath-taking. This was one of the few places where it rained during our journey. Three more memorable sites followed nearby: Tambo Machay, Pukapukara, and Qenko. Tambo Machay, tucked away in a high, narrow canyon was a sacred bathing place for Inca royalty characterized by a sophisticated system of aqueducts and spillways. Qenko is an unusual Inca shrine and amphitheater built to take full advantage of natural stone formations.

Day 11, Thursday, October 25th - Cuzco, Ollantaytambo

Except for Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo was the most dramatic of the ruins we visited. It was gratifying to know that here the Incas bested the Spanish in battle. Adding greatly to this experience was the town of Ollantaytombo at the foot of the ruins. The day of our visit a competition in traditional regional dancing was taking place in the square below the majestic mountains surrounding the town. It was good to know that the Indian people there are teaching their dance traditions to their children at a very early age to help ensure their culture is not entirely lost.On the way back from Ollantaytambo, we chanced to see two Peruvian missionaries on the street. The bus driver stopped and the missionaries came onto the bus. One was near the end of his mission, the other just beginning. They told us they had had a hard day, but bore their testimonies. Before returning to their labors, they seemed much buoyed by their short visit with us. They surely lifted our spirits. To fortify our own traditions and to break the monotony of breath-taking mountains and ruins, we returned to Cuzco via the colorful little town of Pisaq for a well-deserved shopping stop. As we wrestled our modest purchases onto the bus, it felt good to have helped replenish the local economy.

Day 12, Friday, October 26th - Machu Picchu

Not much less thrilling than Machu Picchu itself, was the nearly four-hour train ride up the Urubamba River from Cuzco. All windows on the train that were not permanently shut were open with camera lenses pointing outward and upward at the magnificent snow-capped Andes above. As we proceeded up the Urubamba, we were again greatly impressed by the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the ancient Peruvians. They had carved innumerable terraces for farming on steep mountainsides, sometimes nearly to the top of these lofty peaks. Impressions of Machu Picchu aroused many inspiring thoughts and feelings. Most of us felt the site is a beautiful and near perfect harmony of nature and human endeavor. With mixed feelings, we left the Barrett's behind in Machu Picchu. We would miss their cheerful company, but we were happy they would have opportunity to scale Huyana Picchu and savor some more of this sublime part of the Peruvian Andes.

Day 13, Saturday, October 27th - Back to Lima

Following an uneventful flight back to Lima from Cuzco, we visited the Gold Museum. The artifacts there spanned many of the pre-Columbian civilizations we had seen earlier on our journey and, for that reason, took on added meaning. Having gone with little or no shopping for nearly a full day, we visited an Indian market in Lima for a few, some hoped, final purchases before leaving Peru at midnight.

Day 14, Sunday, October 28th - Lima to home

Our flights back to the U.S. were uneventful. Long may we remember each other and the experiences we shared together.

Personal Memories of Peru

Jean Anderson

My favorite thing about any trip like this is meeting the people. It is always amazing to me how much alike we are and yet so diverse. I'm also amazed at the variety of experiences we have all had. I hope there can be some continued contact within the group. It was totally humbling to me to see the extent of the damage of the earthquake on the lives of these sweet people. I really enjoyed going to the ward and interacting with the members. I was very happy that we could attend a session at the temple in Lima. I also enjoyed meeting Elder Nash and seeing President Gonzales again. It is really thrilling to me how the work of the Lord is rolling forth in Peru. It is always amazing to me that there are such lovely hotels and places to eat in "developing" countries. We went first class. I loved the beautiful things we were able to buy and share with our families. Church was great. We love the "spirit of the mission field." I love the town squares and what they represent in the lives of the people. It was fun to see President and Sister Davis. I am sorry some of our people got sick - not fun! I loved the total experience - so grateful we could participate! A marvelous trip with wonderful people!

Tony Anderson

It started when I met my fellow travelers - such varied and interesting people. I was impressed with the poverty of the people, but also with their friendliness and warmth. I loved the meeting at President Davis's home and the spirit there. I loved the devotionals. I was amazed at the barrenness of the costal areas. I have never seen such vast emptiness. I loved the visit to the floating islands and the whole concept and, as always, the people. I love the way the Church has entered into the lives of the people in all circumstances. As always, I remember the way Stewart Glazier brings the gospel plan into so many of the areas that we visited. I remember the altitude effect, not fondly, but vividly. Our visit to Machu Picchu was wonderful. Such magnificence. But all the "ruins" pale to the interchange between members of the group and between the inhabitants of Peru and the members of the Church. Gracias por todo.

Leroy Barker

Where to start and what to include. The entire tour was memorable, a once in a life time experience; and a "dream come true" - if not exceeded. Among the high points of the experience were the love and caring manifested among the members of the wonderful "group". Thank you one and all! Some reflections of a spiritual or inspirational nature were the happiness and faithfulness of the Peruvian saints, the testimonies of the members of our group, the meeting with Elder Walter F. Gonzalez, and the wonderful sacrament meeting in the lovely mission home in Arequipa. The faithfulness of the members in Ica, the missionaries from Peru, and the members on the floating islands were evidence of the "believing blood" of which Brother Gonzalez spoke. Perhaps that blood contributed to the cheerful, positive nature of the people of Peru. We could see that an abundance of things is not required for people to be happy. A very touching moment for me was the singing of the Peruvian saints as we left the floating island. Perhaps one of the most positive legacies/traditions of the Spanish colonists was that the the beautiful town or city squares. They add so much to the community atmosphere and to the enjoyment of people. I appreciated the many beautiful flowers and flowering trees/shrubs that adorned many streets and yards. The remarkable skills, construction and determination of the Incas and pre-Inca people were impressive indeed. The stone work, engineering, and labor involved in building the temples, fortresses, terraces, etc., were incredible. When our guide was asked "how in the world did they do it", he said, "they had time". I must add, much skill and patience. A delightful, serendipitous experience was the viewing of the traditional folk dancing of the children in Ollantaytambo. It added much to a great day. It was wonderful to see the agriculture, both the new and old. What an opportunity. Again what skill and perseverance were manifested! The terraces, new and ancient irrigation systems. Diverse cropping and grazing methods, and numerous species were exciting to behold, especially for a little, old farm boy. The beauty of the towering, snow-capped mountains, the green and terraced valleys, and the Ballestas Islands exceeded my expectations. And it was all topped off with the trip to Machu Picchu. What joy! A dream come true! Again thank you all, including my Ann, for sharing it with me. We thank the Glaziers for their love, their wisdom, and kind care. Not only that, we thought our accommodations were wonderful and the food was great. Appreciated also was the fine work done by Estefani Hooker, our tour developer, and the Ferrises on the journal.

Rayola Barker

The most outstanding event was our visit to the sweet people who had suffered destruction from the earthquake. To look into their eyes and see these sweet spirits was indeed a spiritual experience. I enjoyed the boat ride and all the birds and seals we got to see the Ballestas Islands. I really enjoyed learning about and seeing the Nazca lines and the Cantalloc aqueduct - a marvelous accomplishment of these ancient people. I was surprised at the tremendous amount of sand dunes - also the lack of rain in the coastal area. I was amazed at the floating islands and the smiling, relaxed people who live there - an incredible adventure. The temples around Cuzco were another amazement to me - that so long ago the people did such incredible things.

Jan Barrett

My fondest memory of Peru would be seeing my son, Greg, again after he served his mission in Peru. It was a sweet moment when we embraced. That aside, Lake Titicaca was an exceptional experience. The moment I landed on the island I pointed to a young lady and told my husband I had to get a picture with her. I felt compelled to meet her. This young lady was later introduced as Dora, the first LDS convert in the Uros Islands. Her child was the first born under the covenant. It just goes to show you that the light of Christ appears all over the world. I felt her spirit before I knew who she was. She is an exceptional young woman. I was deeply moved by the people of the islands. Their tenacity to survive, their simple lives are yet so full of love and charity. I am grateful I had this experience. It is wonderful to see the country in which my son served a mission.

Yvonne Clark

Contact with the members of the Church in Peru made the deepest impression on me. Having taught high school for many years, I am very interested in CES. It is, to me, amazing that so many young people take seminary and institute. In a region where the population is about a million there are 880 seminary students and 700 institute students. In another region 460 seminary and 1,500 institute students. To top that a young seminary teacher, who was the first convert to be baptized from the floating islands and who was married in the temple and whose child is the first to be born under the covenant from the floating islands, gets up at five in the morning and rows a boat to the place they hold seminary in Puno. President Davis told us he has 208 missionaries and 120 from Peru. They have 200 converts a month with an 80% retention rate. He said they need 100 more missionaries and have a goal to double member converts. The enthusiasm of the missionaries is exciting. Spotting two local missionaries walking down the sidewalk, the bus driver pulled over. They came into our bus and talked to us in Spanish. Stewart translated for us. The growth of the Church in Peru is indeed inspiring. The mission session and spotting many LDS churches was also great.

Urania Erskine

Memories are like a many-colored tapestry and it is somewhat difficult to find the one thread that stands out. Yet, for me it is the people that I have met and those I have traveled with that has made this trip outstanding. Traveling with Saints is a joy and our group has been blessed with some outstanding individuals who have put serving the Lord as the center of their lives. This spiritual aspect affects how we treat each other and how we interact and perceive the country and people of Peru.

Ilene Ferris

I was thrilled with the bus ride on the sandy desert coast. The sight of the waves crashing on the rocks as we climbed higher and higher on the Pan-american highway is unforgettable. Having a sunshine committee was a great idea.I appreciated the care the cooks took preparing beautiful feasts for us.My favorite ruin was the lightning temple opposite Sacsayhuaman. We climbed there in the rain to get a better view of the fortress.Our Sacrament meeting in the mission home in Arequipa was a high point for me and I enjoyed the beautiful Libertador Hotel.I had an especially great time with Carol Savio, Urania, Ingrid, Becky, and Mary Lou. The train ride to Machu Picchu was truly spectacular and glorious.

Sandra Glazier

When the group went to see the Inca irrigation in Nazca, I stayed on the bus and visited with the bus driver. I told him I was a Mormon and asked if he knew any Mormons. He said he'd seen the missionaries. He then made the comment, "You have to pay the church each month to be a member. How can someone poor like me be a member." I then explained the law of tithing to him. I told him it was a matter of faith, and those who pay it receive blessings from the Lord. I shared stories with him of blessings that had come to those I know that paid tithing. I told him if he asked people who paid tithing about it they would bear testimony of it. We talked of the Perpetual Education Fund and other things. When we finished he thanked me and said he would look for the missionaries. I felt his spirit as I do so many of the Peruvians here. They have believing blood. Their hearts are ready as we have all seen with many missionary experiences. Delphina, our Puno guide, said she felt energy from us and felt our love and peace. She accepted the Book of Mormon. Our Cuzco guide said this group has Karma and that he respected our missionaries. He accepted the Book of Mormon. There was also a young man who Carol Bracken befriended. They talked about the gospel. He accepted a Book of Mormon. She has his address for the missionaries. Eric and Becky Loveless befriended a young girl on the train. They talked about the gospel and took a Book of Mormon to her hotel. Probably others have also been touched. This was not only a trip to learn of Peru, but it has also been a trip of service, example, and missionary work.

Stewart Glazier

What a pleasure it has been to be with one of the finest groups of people we have travelled with in years. I am grateful for the concern that each has had for others, the love and compassion in the small acts of kindness throughout the trip. I was especially appreciative of the interaction we had with the local people and the blessing we were for them and maybe even the greater blessing they were for us. Sandra and I want to thank you for the blessing you have been for and to us. You have taught us many things as we have watched your examples of kindness and especially your reactions as you met and intermingled with these wonderful Peruvians. May the Lord continue to bless each of you in your pursuits to return to His presence.

Eric Huff

I've made some friends, some that I hardly know, but we've had some times I wouldn't trade for the world. If I could do it again, I wouldn't change a thing. The sites, the people, everything was perfect. Your guys are great! Thanks for everything, and remember, teenagers aren't as bad as the world makes them out to be.

Mary Lou Humphries

The highlight for me so far has to be as the little group of Saints on the first Uros Island we visited and sang "I Am a Child of God" as we departed. As different a life as they live, as unique as they dress, despite their own language, they truly are children of a God who loves them. I was deeply touched. Other highlights: the Ballestos Islands, the friendliness of the Peruvians, the miles of sand dunes, the interaction of the group we were with. I could go on and on. This has been a very rich, rewarding experience.

Walter Humphries

Our spiritual, helpful, cohesive tour group - so willing to make everything work for the good of all. The Ballestas Island experience - the sights, smells, motion, and closeness to nature.The meeting with the Ica Saints. How special they are! The floating islands and the special people that live there. What a different life from ours. On the same theme, the realization of how good we have it in the U.S.A. and as members of the Church.

Don Larson

My preparation for Peru from family and friends was "you must see this and you must do that," counsel that was given with great enthusiasm. Once in Peru as we "saw this and did that" there came a feeling that there was more to Peru than seeing and doing. What has made my visit to Peru special and memorable is the people we have met and learned to love. Our first important encounter came at the chapel in Ica where we met with those members who were adversely affected by the earthquake. The love and joy exchanged and felt were profound. As we traveled through the barren countryside and stopped for breaks and to see special sites, we noticed the kindness and sparkle of love in the eyes of those we saw and those we associated with. Our second special encounter was on Lake Titicaca. Our visit to two LDS islands was informative as we witnessed a unique way of life, but the highlight was sharing the spirit of love as the islanders sang LDS hymns to us as we bid them farewell. I personally wet my handkerchief with tears at each island as I witnessed the love extended through their eyes.

Frank Moffett

This is a difficult assignment because there were so many marvelous things that happened on our trip. Visits with members of the Church were outstanding and associating with them helped me to appreciate all of my personal blessings. Those people have so little, yet they are so happy. They radiate a wonderful spirit and are true examples of what Jesus Christ taught. But my thoughts constantly went to what our guides could only refer to as the "pre-Inca" period populated by an unknown people. The guides could be even better guides if they had knowledge of the Restored Gospel and the Book of Mormon describing the Lamanites, the Jaredites, etc. And, thanks to Stewart, they have been introduced to these marvelous truths. We know a guide in Mexico City, whose husband is the curator of Teotihuacan - The City of the Gods. They accepted the gospel message, have been sealed in the temple, and can now explain the pyramids and the ruins in a way that is much more meaningful to their clients. Our daughter knows Kim personally and loved to join with her as she led tourist through the ruins. She is able to preach the gospel message without ever mentioning the name of the Church. How did the Incas and other ancient people manage to move such huge stones, carve them so perfectly, and then move them into place? Everybody has a different explanation, but nobody knows for sure because there are no written records. As I listened to the theory about using alpaca gut string saws to cut the rocks, it all sounds very logical; yet I cannot help believe that they had much higher technological tools and skills than we give them credit for. We may find out as we leave this earth life; but while I am here, it really doesn't matter that much to me. There are too many more important things I should be doing. The scriptures and our modern-day revelations should be much higher on my priority list than trying to figure out the impossible. I want to be like the members on the floating islands - a photo of President Hinckley in my simple reed hut to remind me of what is really important in this life.

Marjorie Ogden

My favorite memories have been when we have associated with the Saints here in Peru. When I came to Peru I never dreamed that this trip would turn out to be such a spiritual experience. I felt that the Saints in Ica enjoyed us as much as we enjoyed being with them. As we were doing the "Hokey-Pokey" with the children and passing out candy, I could see the joy in their eyes and this touched me so very much. When I saw the Saints on the floating islands, I don't feel I have ever counted my blessing so much. The picture of our prophet in the reed house was also touching. I feel that the mingling we have done with the Saints has been the highlight of this trip for me.

Carol Savio

My "pilgrimage" to Peru with 27 Saints from far and near touched my life forever. The Savior said: "Where two or more are gathered together - there am I": the temple session with the Peruvian Saints; sacrament meeting with the Mission President and his wife and six dedicated Elders on the Lord's errand; the Saints on the floating islands, singing and waving; hugging and playing with the Saints of Ica. "The gospel of the Lord will be preached to all the world" (Matt. 24:14): testimonies of Elders and Greg and Eric on the bus; giving a Book of Mormon to a passenger on the plane; singing hymns in the hotels where we stayed; guides and drivers listening on the bus to devotionals; Eric spending time with a young man at Nazca; Greg visiting a young señorita on the bus. "When I was sick ye visited me": blessings and prayers on behalf of those who were ill; helping hands given to lift those who needed help over the rocky trails or up steep stairs; a listening ear to those who needed to talk or didn't understand the language (especially when shopping!); taking pictures for each other - "Gracias." "A merry heart heart turns away 'worries'": five little "pilgrims" I once knew of wibble-wobble - to "Puca Pacara"; sisters need the "baños" fast while the brother PATIENTLY visit 'til the last!; sunshine people giving so much time to make awards for all - even BLOOPERS! ". . . and a little child shall lead them"; Andrea's smile and eagerness to help, especially with shopping; young Elders caring for the luggage, helping with shopping and the language. "He who is greatest among you, let him be the servant of all": with gratitude to the Glaziers for all the preparations, knowledge, patience, and example of the Lord's gospel in action. I'll be forever grateful. Thank you dear Saints for your friendship, laughter and listening. "God be with you 'til we meet again - in the sweet by and by."

Richard Savio

My most precious memory of Peru is the association of the Saints themselves - meeting the leaders at La Molina and then Ica where the earthquake had taken such a toll on the members. There were several deaths and many lost everything materially. Yet their faith comes shining through and they carry on. We prayed with them, embraced them and sang with them. Love was prevalent in their meetinghouse. Our visit to the members on the floating islands on Lake Titicaca was also a great inspiration as we felt their love for the gospel as they sang to us as we left. A young female seminary teacher visits the islands with students by boat starting at 5:00 a.m. The Peruvian Saints have believing hearts, loving hearts, and the grace of God as is evident in their lives. I will not forget my experience with them.